How to shape your nails with a manicure spatula

Differences from extensions

It is necessary to distinguish between arched modeling and conventional extensions. Although they may involve the same steps and use the same materials, they are different procedures.

Extended nails with arched modeling

During regular nail extensions, the master works with the natural nail structure, adjusting a certain material to it. It does not change or be adjusted . Not every nail is suitable for extensions: on a wide and trapezoidal plate it looks ugly.

Arched modeling is the process of adjusting the shape of the nail to the extension. It is cut under each nail and as a result it turns out smooth, symmetrical and beautiful. An arch is formed on the nails, the degree of curvature of which ideally correlates with its length and width.

How to choose the perfect shape?

Many manicurists claim that proper nails should perfectly match the cuticle. In fact, this rule is far from the only one and not even the leading one. The manicure scheme is as follows:

estimate the length and width of your fingers;
find obvious flaws that you would like to hide;
select the desired length;
compare the final shape with the cuticle.

So, to choose the right form, you need to rely on the following information:

Nail manicure examples

The almond shape helps to lengthen the finger and make it more graceful. It is ideal for people whose nails are slightly longer than average. Almonds can be made by filing both edges of the plate and leaving a slight roundness in the very center.
Square - beautiful and stately, it is suitable for women with thin and long fingers. Square nail plates will give proportionality to such hands. In order to make a similar shape, you need to cut off the top edge of the nail and file the free edges strictly in a straight line.
Oval – suitable for everyone. To make an oval shape, you need to carefully file the nail on both sides, achieving a perfect circle without cracks.
Rectangular - a variant for women with long, narrow fingers. To create a clear rectangle, it is enough to slightly correct the natural appearance of the nail plates: file the corners and make the top edge straight.
Triangular (pointed) look good on long and thin fingers. Such nails are distinguished by their impressive length (about 10-12 mm of the free edge). To reproduce them, you need to carefully file the plate on both sides, creating a clear, sharp tip.

By applying extensions, a person can give himself the most exotic manicure. Unusual options can be illustrated using a simple example. There is a form that has an interesting name - ballerina. This is a mixture of two types of nail plates: almond-shaped and square. Absolutely all exotic nails are created based on natural data: squawval (square and oval), beveled nails (square with a bevel), pipe (sharp square).

Advantages

This type of nail design has a number of advantages:

the result is ideally shaped nails;

Beautiful “arched” French

the nail becomes strong;
the curved arch line has a perfect C-shape;
the free edge is very strong and difficult to break;
during the modeling process, all defects, irregularities and damage to the plate are corrected;
the nail becomes more resistant to external mechanical influences;
the risk of breaking the modeled nail is minimal.

The procedure is quite lengthy compared to conventional extensions and takes 2-3 hours in the salon; modeling at home can take even longer, since the master has more opportunities to take into account the individual characteristics of each client.

Choosing a beautiful nail shape

Before picking up a file, decide on the desired shape. In addition to your preferences, you need to pay attention to the length and shape of your fingers, as well as the condition of the nail itself. Well, fashion trends, of course, have not been canceled.

There are 6 main forms. Here they are:

Rounded. The nail is crescent shaped and short in length.
Oval. Length - average. The free edge has an oblong and rounded shape. This option is suitable for those who want to visually lengthen their fingers and make them thinner.
Almond-shaped. This shape is very similar to an oval shape, but the tip of the nail is slightly pointed.
Square. The free edge should not be rounded, the corners should be straight. If you have brittle nails, then this option is ideal.
Square with rounded corners or “soft square”. It differs from a square in that the corners are slightly rounded.
Pointed or stiletto shape. A kind of tribute to the fashion of recent seasons. Nails should be long and the free edge should be very pointed.

Required tools and materials

For the procedure, you must have a set of tools, which can be purchased at a specialized store. A modeling master must have in his arsenal:

tins to create a shape - placed on the plate, adjusted to its silhouette;
arched forms - used instead of tins. They come in metal and plastic, disposable and reusable;

Before the arch extension procedure, it is necessary to prepare all materials and tools

tubes for modeling the bend of the arch;
tassels;
files;
brushes of different diameters;
modeling clips;
tweezers;
UV lamp for drying gel.

The sets of tools may differ from one craftsman to another: it depends on experience and professional skills. The more nail design options and plate silhouettes a master can offer, the wider the range of his tools.

For arched modeling, gel varnishes and acrylics are used , additionally decorating them with rhinestones, stickers and stencil designs.

How to choose molds and clamps

Arch Modeling Clamps

Without clamps, you won’t get a beautiful arch bend. For high-quality manicure, clips in the form of clothespins . They should be small in size, a little tight and hold the arch tightly when modeling with gel. Each master himself determines which clamps are easier for him to work with: wooden, plastic or iron.

The forms are sold in sets, and it is desirable that there is a large selection among them for all possible nail shapes. It is convenient to use reusable tin forms: they can be easily adjusted to any nail. Some customers prefer disposable materials, but this will also cost more.

What nail shape is considered correct?

Women often wonder which nail shape is the most beautiful and correct. The most common and practical is rounded. Short and medium round nails do not interfere with work, rarely break and look great both in everyday life and at evening events. The most important thing is to choose the right design. The rounded design is characterized by the absence of sharp corners and the short length of the free edge of the nail (up to 5-6 mm maximum).

Another popular form: almond. Almond is a slightly pointed oval. This option is perfect for women with long or medium nails. On short nails, a slightly pointed tip looks strange and awkward.

So what does the ideal shape depend on? Correct nails should fit your fingers. Almond and circle are universal options that suit 90% of women. But this does not mean that only they are considered correct. First of all, when choosing a specific option, you need to rely on your fingers and cuticle. You should not chase fashion trends and imposed ideals.

Arch modeling technology

Arch modeling is carried out in four stages.

Preparation for extensions is a set of measures aimed at cleansing and degreasing the nail plates.
Applying the base material ( primer ) in a thin layer. After this, it is dried under a special lamp.

When applying the primer, you need to make sure that it does not touch the cuticle, otherwise the main gel may later be rejected.

Modeling the required shape using special devices. First, the most accurate shape of the nail is formed and applied to the plate.

Arch modeling process
There should be no cracks or gaps between the form and the nail; they should fit each other perfectly. After applying the required amount of gel, the nails are dried and the forms are removed.
Then they are fixed with special clamps and the desired silhouette of the plate is created. Nail modeling requires significant experience and skills; this can only be entrusted to a specialist.
Completion of extension . At this stage, the master removes the sticky layer of gel, dries and files the uneven edges, making the shape perfect.

Watch the video master class on arched modeling, where the whole process is shown step by step and in detail:

Common mistakes

Errors during operation can cause many unpleasant consequences: cracks on the plate, delamination of material, and asymmetry of shape. To protect your manicure from these troubles, you need to know about the main mistakes when doing arched modeling.

It is important to follow the technology of arched nail modeling

Incorrect application of the gel base at the very beginning. The primer should be applied carefully, avoiding contact with the periungual ridges and cuticles.
The discrepancy between the shape of the nail and the shape for modeling can cause an unsightly nail as a result of the procedure.
You should accurately maintain the required drying time under the lamp , do not overexpose it or turn it off prematurely.
Ignoring the first stage of the procedure - preparatory, when the nail plate should be treated with an antiseptic degreasing agent.
Violation of the manicure adjustment regime causes a shift in the bend of the arch, a violation of the modeled shape and its deformation.

A qualified master takes these nuances into account in his work and tries to avoid such mistakes so that the manicure lasts as long as possible and the shape remains flawless.

Ugly fingernails: photos before and after manicure

A visit to a professional nail technician can turn ugly fingernails into a work of art. Let's look at some illustrative examples of the condition of nails before and after a manicure. Manicure at home often leads to brittle and split nails.
Improper use of manicure tools slows down the growth of the nail plate.
Professional nail care includes a wide variety of services.
correction is carried out using trimmed and hardware manicures, nail extensions, gel polish coating, and acrylic plastic surgery.
Therapeutic manicure includes spa treatments and helps you achieve a flawless appearance.
Nail extensions allow you to get any desired result in a short time.
Professionals can modify any natural form into the desired one and secure the result for a long period.

Difference

Result

Restrained

Result

Gently