Sculpting gel and its application

What you need for extensions in different ways

For beginners, it is advisable to choose a thick extension gel to avoid bumps. The technology is understandable, but beginners have difficulty choosing the material. You definitely need a UF or LED lamp; it is better to buy a hybrid right away, although its price is higher. You will need the following:

• nail files for shaping and filing nails;
• sanding blocks;
• several brushes;
• antiseptic and degreaser;
• forms or tips (also glue for them and a tip cutter);
• a brush or clean napkins to remove dust;
• single-phase or three-phase gel;
• color and finishing coating, decorative elements.

Beginners are interested in which gel to choose for nail extensions on the form. A thicker, viscous material will be suitable, which will be convenient for forming a smooth transition from the natural nail plate. Using tips, you can take any product, the main thing is to distribute it evenly.

What is camouflage modeling nail gel?

Few girls have naturally healthy and beautiful nails. Mechanical damage and interaction with aggressive detergents do not improve the condition of the nail plate. To disguise minor imperfections and adjust the shape and length of nails, manicurists use modeling nail gel in their work.

Modeling gel is a solution of different consistency and shade that is used for extension and modeling of artificial nails. The gel is applied to the nail surface, distributed evenly, and then placed in a UV lamp. Thanks to this, the gel is securely bonded to the surface of the nail.

Benefits of camouflage gel

It is worth noting that camouflage gels are good at eliminating defects in the nail plate that become invisible. Basically, the color palette of gels is close to the shade of natural nails. Therefore, these are usually pastel colors such as beige and peach. Camouflage gel has its advantages, which include:

• The result is a smooth nail plate that looks natural.
• The stratum corneum of the plate is strengthened.
• Prevents the occurrence of fungus, as the gel contains antifungal properties.
• The coating is porous, so it is safe for the nail plate.
• Artificial nails are almost no different from natural ones.
• Long service life, with timely adjustments.

READ ALSO: How to beautifully shape your nails?

Types of modeling gel

• Manicure product has several varieties:
• single-phase coating;
• two-phase coating;
• three-phase.

The most common in use is single-phase camouflage gel. It often has a thick consistency and is used for base, top and modeling coatings. This material dries under the lamp in just 3-5 minutes.

Two-phase is not used so often, since the time of its application to nail plastic is approximately the same as three-phase. However, in this case the coating is not so durable.

Application of three-phase coating requires special training, as its consistency is liquid and can foam. To achieve the desired effect, several layers are applied, due to which the manicure becomes quite strong and becomes resistant to various damages.

Some camouflage gels require only 2 minutes to cure in a UV lamp. For example, this includes modeling nail gel EXPRESS BUILDER GEL. The product is transparent and plastic, which allows you to form a nail in a short time.

Sequence of build-up

The stages of extension using a sculptor in a single-phase or three-phase system are the same. The only difference is the type of the main substance, that is, one gel is used to form the nail or 3 different products. So, step by step instructions:

1. Preparation. Hands must be treated with an antiseptic, paying attention to the bed. Next, do the manicure in the usual way (pull back, remove the cuticle, give the plates a shape), buff the nails. Next you should use a degreaser, dehydrator, and primer.
2. Tips/forms. Extensions can be done both on tips and on forms. The latter are tightly secured under the bed so that they do not move. If tips are used, they are first shortened with a tip cutter. In addition, they need to be shaped, sanded, and then glued to the plates.
3. Layout of material. The first layer is the base: in a single-phase system it is immediately colored, in a three-phase system it is transparent. You need to distribute the product evenly, avoiding flowing under the cuticle. Next, carefully lay out modeling thick gel for nail extension, achieving the desired shape or length. It is better to make the first layer thin, otherwise lumps will form. Before each application, it is necessary to dry the substance with a lamp.
4. The final stage. All that remains is to shape the nails and sand the surface of the artificial plates. Thick gels level themselves without requiring special filing. Dust must be removed with a brush and then degreased. The last layer after color is applied (with a three-phase system), sealing the ends, as well as the sides. It must be dried in a lamp.

After all these steps, the plate is coated with colored varnish. Next they make a design - it can be a painted flower, butterflies, abstract lines, rhinestones, stamping. Often the plates are left only with modeling material of a natural shade (pink, beige, nude, milky). In this case, it is recommended to simply apply the finish and lubricate the cuticles with oil, the nails will look well-groomed.

Types of extension products

Every master, especially beginners, should know how to choose a gel for nail extensions. The quality of work depends not only on the type of material, but also on experience. As already mentioned, there are single-phase and three-phase products. With the first ones, everything is clear - there is one liquid, applied in several stages.

Dense substances called sculpting gels are suitable for modeling. They are also used as a fixative for artistic elements: lace, figurines, rhinestones, creating a convex relief. It is also most often used to create length, but as an alternative, you can choose camouflage in natural shades. Sculpting gel can be used to easily increase length or hide a crack or flaw.

A new material in the nail industry is gel-chewing gum, which resembles the consistency of stretchy jelly. Suitable for both building and strengthening. It polymerizes very quickly in a lamp, literally in 5-10 seconds. You can buy it not only in Moscow or another big city, but also in online stores.

Technique for nail extension using camouflage

The extension procedure is carried out mainly in salons, but if you wish and follow all the rules for working with materials and equipment, you can perform extensions at home.

The entire procedure for working with camouflage gel is carried out in several stages:

1. We prepare and treat hands and nails, that is, we carry out a standard hygienic manicure.
2. Degrease the nail plates.
3. Apply primer and cure it in a lamp.
4. Next, prepare the artificial form and place it on the nail plate so that the center of the nail coincides with the center of the form.

   

5. We put a certain amount of gel on the brush and distribute it evenly over the surface of the mold, starting from the middle and moving towards the free edge. At this stage, we model the required length and desired shape of the extended free edge.

   

6. The formed fragment is polymerized in a lamp.
7. Then we cover the natural plate with base gel and dry it. This is done for better adhesion.

   

8. Apply the base coat again to the fragment and the entire nail, but do not dry it.
9. Using a brush, pick up a certain amount of camouflage and place it in the middle of the nail plate. Using even smooth movements of the brush, we distribute it over the entire plate, trying to get no closer than 1 mm to the cuticle and ridges.

   

10. After the material has been laid out on the surface, we place it under the lamp for 15-20 seconds. Then we press the gel with a special clothespin, and again send it to polymerize until completely dry.

    

11. We remove the mold, the sticky layer, file the free edge, and sand the surface with a buff.

    

12. If subsequent design and decoration is not provided, then apply a finishing coat, seal the end and dry in a lamp until the top is completely dry.

    

You can more clearly familiarize yourself with the technique of modeling and extending nails with camouflage material by watching the video:

Initially, camouflage gels were invented and developed to create the perfect jacket. An example of such a manicure is shown in detail in the video:

With the help of camouflage material, you can carry out not only the process of building up nail plates, but also carry out the procedure for strengthening them. You can learn more about the technique by watching the video:

Advantages and disadvantages of different systems

Professionals of the same often use single-phase and three-phase systems. It is impossible to say exactly what gel you should use to extend your nails. You need to try several different materials yourself to understand what holds up better and is comfortable to work with. Advantages of a single-phase product:

• suitable for beginners as it has a thick consistency;
• easily distributed over the plate, does not flow under the cuticle;
• the opportunity to save on products, since only one product is needed for all stages (base, laying out material, finishing).

The only drawback is the small number of colors in the palette. As a rule, only nude shades or a white tone are used. Accordingly, the nail will have to be covered with colored varnish.

The colors of the gel for extensions using the three-phase system are so varied that you can choose one for any skin tone - from light milky to dark brown. They are more often chosen by professionals who know how to work with liquid substances and create shapes. The downside is that you will need different materials, which means you will have to buy 3 products at once.

First, the base is applied in a thin layer, then the desired length and thickness are achieved using a self-leveling sculptor. The second material can be several layers with intermediate drying in a lamp. At the end, a final product is used - top. They go through all the ends, paying special attention to the sides.

Rating of gels for nail extensions

The modern market for nail extension products is filled with products from different brands, which differ in cost and quality. It should be noted that cheap materials do not always perform poorly in work, and even among expensive materials there are examples of not the best quality. Before choosing materials for work, you should consult with experienced craftsmen and read reviews about products from different companies.

If you need materials for extensions, there are only a few options for where to buy nail gel. Firstly, you can purchase it in a specialized store or professional salon, but this method is only suitable for residents of large cities. It is easier for masters from the provinces to order nail gel in one of the online stores in Moscow or St. Petersburg that sell materials for nail art. Such sites often offer lucrative promotions and discounts and promise free delivery by mail.

Formula Profi

One of the most famous manufacturers of gel materials for nail art is the Russian company Formula Profi. It only works on a three-phase system:

• model name: Gel base Formula Pro;
• price: 590 rubles;
• characteristics: 10 ml, odorless, liquid, neutral pH level, hardens in 90 seconds with a UV lamp, in 30-60 seconds in an LED lamp, depending on the drying power;
• pros: provides good adhesion of the gel base to the nail plate, odorless;
• cons: none.

In the catalog of this manufacturer there are three types of the second, main phase for nail extension using tips. They differ in shade, but they are all equally in demand among craftsmen:

• model name: Crystal Formula Profi Construction Gel transparent;
• price: 970 rubles;
• characteristics: 15 grams, thick and viscous, low temperature, polymerization time in a UV lamp 3-4 minutes;
• pros: easy to use, you can create a wide variety of manicure designs with it;
• cons: expensive.

In the Formula Profi system, a special topcoat is used to fix the construction gel:

• model name: Top gel Formula Pro without sticky layer;
• price: 720 rubles;
• characteristics: 10 ml, odorless, liquid, hardens in a lamp in 2 minutes;
• pros: gives a beautiful shine, is resistant to household chemicals, hides imperfections in the coating, does not require removal of the sticky layer;
• cons: high cost.

All season nail extension gel

Among the products of a famous American brand for gel nail modeling, it is worth highlighting one unusual product:

• model name: Hologram modeling UV gel Shimmer Gel from All Season;
• price: 1210 rubles;
• characteristics: 28 grams, transparent with small silver glitter, can be used as a second or third phase, dries in 120 seconds;
• pros: original, beautiful, multifunctional;
• cons: expensive.

French manicure goes with different clothes and always remains in trend, so many girls prefer to wear it every day:

• model name: Toning pink UV gel for French coat All Season Pinker Pink;
• price: 1148 rubles;
• characteristics: second phase, 28 grams, translucent, caramel, medium viscosity, polymerization time 3 minutes;
• pros: easy to apply, quickly leveled, does not form bubbles;
• cons: none.

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IBD

The well-known American company IBD offers a whole line of various materials for gel nail modeling. For example, a harmless primer that does not contain acids:

• model name: Acid-free gel primer IBD Bonder Gel;
• price: 800 rubles;
• characteristics: 14 ml, odorless, liquid, self-leveling, hardens in a lamp in 1 minute;
• pros: does not affect the structure of the nail plate, provides good adhesion, does not turn yellow over time;
• Cons: Suitable for professional use only.

As a basis for different types of manicure, you can use the transparent building UV gel from this company:

• model name: IBD UV Builder Gel Clear;
• price: 650 rubles;
• characteristics: 14 grams, odorless, self-leveling, medium viscosity, polymerization time in a UV lamp 30 seconds;
• pros: multifunctional, relatively cheap;
• cons: can only be dried under ultraviolet light.

The price of a gel for nail extensions is determined not only by its composition and company name, but also by the volume offered in a particular version. Large packages are cheaper, but are suitable only for masters who are constantly engaged in gel modeling of nail plates:

• model name: IBD UV French X-treme Builder Gel White;
• price: 1650 rubles;
• characteristics: 56 grams, odorless, thick, white, drying time in a UV lamp 4 minutes;
• pros: economical packaging, lays flat, does not spread;
• cons: takes a long time to dry, only for professional use.

Runail

Another well-known Russian company that produces materials for gel nail art brings good products to the market at affordable prices. They have ready-made kits that are in demand among beginning craftsmen:

• model name: Basic set for nail extensions with gel “Standard” from ruNail;
• price: 2499 rubles;
• characteristics: the set includes: UV lamp, three-phase extension system, acid-free primer, straight brush, degreasing and sticky remover, nail polish remover, nail file, sander, orange sticks, lint-free wipes, foil tape, cuticle oil;
• pros: cheaper than buying everything separately;
• Cons: For professional use only.

The product catalog presents different coating systems - single-phase and three-phase, as well as colored and camouflage:

• model name: UV gel camouflage pink ruNail;
• price: 360 rubles;
• characteristics: 15 grams, medium viscosity, self-leveling, polymerization time 3 minutes;
• pros: blends in with the natural color, masks minor defects;
• cons: dries only in a UV lamp, not very durable.

As for color products, the manufacturer offers a large palette of different shades, and their prices are very affordable:

• Model name: UV gel color translucent orange;
• price: 205 rubles;
• characteristics: 7.5 grams, high viscosity, orange color, dries in 60-180 seconds depending on the amount of product applied;
• pros: beautiful rich shade, colors can be mixed, inexpensive;
• cons: small volume.

Single-phase gel Jessnail

The world-famous cosmetics company JessNail offers only single-phase systems for gel coating of nails. Their simplest option is this:

• model name: single-phase gel profBar-Clear from JessNail;
• price: 202 rubles;
• characteristics: 15 grams, liquid consistency, dries in about two minutes;
• pros: cheap, one product replaces several bottles, suitable for beginners;
• cons: unreliable, can cause irritation.

The question of how much JessNail nail extension gel costs can be answered succinctly - very cheap compared to other manufacturers. For example, a natural single-phase system according to the catalog costs even less than 100 rubles:

• model name: JessNail single-phase natural gel;
• price: 90 rubles;
• characteristics: 15 grams, self-leveling, natural, pleasant shade, dries in 3 minutes;
• pros: very cheap, hides defects of the nail plate well;
• Cons: takes a long time to dry, there is a slight chemical smell.

In the catalog of this manufacturer there are several options for colored gel bases for French and other designs:

• model name: Single-phase gel soft pink Candy Rose from JessNail;
• price: 251 rubles;
• characteristics: 15 ml, self-leveling, above average viscosity, ideal for French manicure;
• pros: inexpensive, pleasant natural color, hides minor defects;
• cons: none.

Global

Gel bases for high-quality nail extensions are produced by another American brand called “Global”. They have both single-phase and three-phase systems for expansion:

• model name: Global Fashuon Clear Single-Phase UV Gel transparent;
• price: 799 rubles;
• characteristics: 30 grams, colorless, liquid consistency;
• advantages: does not cause allergies, easy to work, easy to file;
• cons: relatively high cost.

Professional craftsmen will find stained glass UV products of different shades useful in their work. Global sells them both individually and as a set:

• model name: Global stained glass gel set, 12 pieces;
• price: 1499 rubles;
• characteristics: 12 small jars with products of different colors;
• pros: beautiful, unusual, you can create different designs;
• cons: expensive.

Why doesn't the material hold up?

Sometimes novice nail artists are faced with the problem that structured nail gel does not last longer than 7-10 days. This is due to the quality of not only the materials, but also the work. Due to lack of experience, a person makes many mistakes that do not allow him to achieve the desired result. In this case, the condition of the plates after removing the varnish can greatly deteriorate. The main causes of brittleness or peeling of the sculptor:

• insufficiently ground plates;
• old coating remains;
• greasy surface (no degreasing stage);
• paint got on the cuticle;
• contact with water immediately after the procedure;
• inappropriate length;
• extension gels from 2-3 different brands, their structure or density is different;
• ignoring primer, antiseptic;
• poor cuticle processing.

It may happen that a girl wears extended manicure for longer than the permissible time. The architecture is disrupted, as a result of which the stress point shifts (thick nail gel is applied to this area to make the plate stronger). It can be easily determined by lightly pressing on the free edge without varnish. You need to look at which area has become lighter - this is the stress point. If the manicure was done a long time ago, the stress zone shifts, and the plate becomes vulnerable to even minor mechanical stress. The coating must be changed in a timely manner (every 2-3 weeks), avoiding strong regrowth.

Most women do not dare to do nail extensions, especially at home. In fact, even a beginner can complete the process if you select the right materials and fully follow the technology. Just 4 steps will help you achieve perfect coverage that will delight you for several weeks.