Why do you need a keratolytic in manicure?
In the popular techniques of classic edged, hardware, and European unedged manicure, softening and removal of the cuticle is required at different stages. This task is accomplished by special means – keratolytics. They are also called removers or softeners.
The principle of action of the funds can be traced in the name itself. The word keratolytic is derived from two parts: “keratin”, which means protein, and “lysis” - the process of dissolution.
The products soften and dissolve keratin, which is a structural part of the skin, hair and nails, making it easier for the specialist to process the cuticle and remove pterygium around the nail. The skin of the cuticle and pterygium, softened or turned into a homogeneous “mush,” can be easily removed using a pusher, an orange stick, or cut off with nail scissors or tongs.
The keratolytic significantly reduces the time required for hand treatment by a master in the salon or at home, ensuring a well-groomed aesthetic appearance of the skin around the nails after the procedure.
In different manicure techniques, the use of removers or softeners may differ in the order of the stage of action on the skin, as well as in composition.
Cuticle Care Rules - A Guide to Products and Procedures
Eyelash remover
Eyelash corner extensions
After a while, some of the hair extensions begin to fall off. If correction or re-extension is not planned, then the remaining artificial lint can be removed in the salon or independently, using an eyelash remover. Thanks to the action of active substances, the product effectively and quickly neutralizes the adhesive base. Cream or gel eyelash remover for sale.
On a note. Lash makers prohibit removing hairs with tweezers, pulling them out, as this harms the mucous membrane of the eyes and native eyelashes. If the eyes become inflamed after removal in this manner, conjunctivitis may develop.
How to remove eyelash extensions
Operating principle:
- The composition is applied to the eyelid, to the base of hair growth;
- Leave the product on for 5 to 10 minutes, after which the hairs along with the composition can be removed. The exact time is indicated in the instructions on the package;
- The active substances dissolve the resinous composition on which the eyelashes were glued;
- The extended fiber is lifted and easily removed, without harm to the natural eyelashes.
Types of keratolytics used in manicure
To choose the optimal product, the specialist needs to understand the principle of the effect of keratolytics on the skin. Softening of keratin is carried out by alkalis, acids, urea or urea. They are the main structural components of removers. In a professional cosmetics store for manicure, you can choose the following options for keratolytics:
- Alkaline;
- Acid;
- Based on urea or carbamide.
- Alkaline keratolytic was one of the first options to hit the market. It is the most aggressive in its effects on the skin and requires the use of a neutralizer after use. This is necessary in order to return the Ph level to its original level, preventing further destruction of keratin.
- Acidic keratolytics for manicure have replaced alkaline ones as they are softer and more gentle in their effects.
- The third generation is urea-based softeners. They do not destroy keratin, but only nourish it and soften it, lifting dead skin particles and facilitating their further removal.
The division into acid and alkaline keratolytics is carried out according to the Ph level. Indicators from 5.5 to 7 Ph are considered neutral. Everything below is acid, and everything above is alkali.
The higher or lower the Ph value is from neutral on the scale, the higher or lower the acidic or alkaline properties of the softener.
Alkaline removers for manicure
The most intense compositions. Usually the name of a keratolytic with alkali contains the prefix “Express” or “intensive”.
They dissolve the keratin of the cuticle and pterygium in 2-3 minutes, and it can be easily removed from the surface of the nail. Alkaline removers come complete with a neutralizer or must be purchased additionally. You can take a universal neutralizer that is suitable for all types of keratolytics based on alkalis and acids.
The main active components of alkaline keratolytic are soda ash, caustic potash and EDTA. In addition to them, there are additives that are designed to moisturize and nourish dry skin - oils, herbal extracts, vitamins and minerals.
Acid cuticle softeners
Acid keratolytics have a mild, caring effect. Produced on the basis of fruit, lactic or salicylic acids.
They can combine several options in one composition. It is worth noting that lactic acid has a whitening effect.
The higher the Ph value, the milder the acid softener. Typically the working range of these products is Ph 2-4. The exposure time of the acid agent is 2-3 minutes. The instructions must be strictly followed. It is recommended to use the product once every 7-10 days to keep your hands in well-groomed condition.
Urea keratolytics
Urea keratolytics are considered the safest modern means for removing cuticles.
They have a strong softening and moisturizing effect on the skin. Can be used for diabetic conditions, vascular problems, after chemotherapy. Urea or urea is suitable for those clients who have contraindications for the use of acid and alkaline softeners. It has a slight analgesic effect, reduces irritation, soothes the skin and accelerates exfoliation of the epidermis.
Urea-based keratolytics do not disturb the Ph balance, so their use does not require neutralizers.
Alternative mineral and oil removers
Mineral softeners do not contain aggressive components that destroy protein and irritate the skin.
In the list of ingredients you can see calcium, magnesium, zinc in combination with sea or mineral water. Such compositions are suitable not for removal, but for softening the cuticle for the purpose of further cutting with scissors or forceps.
Oil removers also do not remove rough skin and pterygium, but intensively soften and care for the epidermis. Apply for 10-15 minutes, then the skin is pushed back with a pusher or an orange stick, and cut off with scissors or cutters.
These products are alternative and are used for well-groomed hands when performing maintenance procedures at home.
Cuticle remover is
A classic edged manicure involves removing the cuticle. It is not recommended to do this mechanically “dry”, since the skin is injured, and along with it the nail plate. Only a specialist in the salon and with some experience can do this treatment as carefully as possible. At home, special products called Removers are most often used.
This is a cuticle remover. It is usually presented in the form of a solution or gel, which is applied to the corresponding area. The composition is selected by the manufacturer in such a way that the coarsened part of the periungual ridges and cuticle - its keratinized layer - dissolves under the influence of the substances.
You may also be interested in information about how to properly use a cuticle remover.
The video shows how this tool is used:
If we talk about beneficial properties, the following stand out:
- Safety of use . It is almost impossible to cause infection when using the composition due to the fact that there is no need to cut the parts to be removed too deeply.
- Easy to use . It is enough to apply the composition to the required areas, then wait for the exposure time and remove the composition and softened parts of the cuticle.
- Speed of work . Manicure with this product is carried out quite quickly and without interference. Therefore, you don’t have to spend a lot of time and make great efforts in the process of caring for your nails. The process of action of the composition usually lasts about 5 minutes.
But which liquid for removing cuticles at home is the most effective, the information at the link will help you understand.
But even despite such advantages, the disadvantages of the product should also be taken into account. They are presented as follows:
- Remover can damage the nail plate . Its impact may be overly aggressive. And given the fact that it is almost impossible to apply it to a specific area without going beyond it, there is a risk of softening the nail near the hole. This may cause unevenness on the surface.
- The composition is not used for infectious or fungal infections of the skin and nails. Acidic compounds can worsen the condition of the nail and allow pathogens to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin.
- The composition cannot be used regularly, as such exposure can negatively affect the texture and condition of the cuticle and plate.
Therefore, you need to approach any process, including nail care, as pedantically as possible, but without fanaticism. Procedures should be alternated to ensure healthy looking nails.
Experts believe that unedged manicure can be used no more than 2 times a month. During pregnancy, you can use the composition, but with extreme caution, as some products can cause allergies.
You may also be interested in information about which cuticle remover is the best and how to use them.
Advantages and disadvantages of keratolytics
As with any professional cosmetics, a high concentration of active ingredients leads to pros and cons when used. They also have their own indications and contraindications for use.
Benefits of keratolytics for manicure:
- Fast exposure time 1-3 minutes;
- Effective removal or softening of the cuticle;
- Painless effect;
- Slowing cuticle growth;
- Versatility: can be used in both manicure and pedicure;
- Cost-effective, especially when using liquid formulas;
- Can be used during pregnancy and breastfeeding;
- Long-term hydration in the case of urea keratolytics;
- The ability to select economical means in each type of keratolytics.
Disadvantages and contraindications:
- The possibility of an allergic reaction to the components of the composition;
- The inability to use removers in the presence of even the smallest injuries and cracks on the surface of the skin;
- It is necessary to additionally use a neutralizer for alkaline and acid keratolytics;
- If used incorrectly and not according to instructions, chemical burns of varying degrees may occur.
Professional products
Removers are divided into different types depending on the composition and its action. If we look at it in more detail:
Acid
Acid removers are one of the fastest-acting compounds. In just 3 minutes they are able to dissolve the stratum corneum on the periungual plate and cuticle. But this is where the danger lies - because if used incorrectly, the structure of the nail can also be damaged. That is why such compositions are used mainly in salon conditions. But what is the best remedy for softening the cuticle is described in great detail here.
A very effective product for removing old cuticles
Alkaline
Alkaline remover is a milder drug in action, used at home. Due to such a gentle action, its action time is accordingly extended - up to 25 minutes. But which cutter to use to remove cuticles during a hardware manicure is described in great detail here.
This product can be used for a long time
Oily
Oil remover. If it causes any harm, it is minimal. The cuticle is not removed, but softened, which helps to remove it using special manicure scissors or even a simple stick. This composition is suitable for frequent use and for very sensitive epidermis. But how to remove cuticles at home and what you should pay attention to when working is outlined here.
After using this remedy, the problem will go away for a long time.
Mineral
Mineral remover is a useful drug that is enriched with additional components. It is considered the most useful remedy of the above. The composition contains all kinds of necessary components, minerals, vitamins, oils, which help not only remove the cuticle, but also nourish the nail. But whether you need to cut the cuticle and how to do it correctly, the information at the link will help you understand.
The product contains various vitamins that will moisturize the skin
The choice of type depends generally on what resources a person has at his disposal, as well as under what conditions it will be used.
When using acid removers, side effects of the drug may also occur: redness, itching in the treatment area, thinning of the nails. Therefore, it is necessary to take a responsible approach to the use of such compositions so as not to completely ruin your nails.
This information will help you understand what professional Stalex cuticle tweezers look like and how they are used.
Popular remover brands
Softening agents can be universal, for manicure and pedicure, or used only when treating hands. This is usually indicated on the label and dictated by the intensity of the components in the composition. The skin of the hands is thinner and softer, and the feet require more active drugs.
The most popular brands of removers:
- Sagitta: acid, alkaline and urea options to choose from;
- Urea based Inki;
- Biogel from Derma Pharms, UK
- Salu;
- Be Natural;
- Gewol;
- Severina.
Tips from cosmetologists
In beauty salons, lash makers use professional products to remove eyelashes of various types (liquid, cream, gel, oil). The choice of eyelash remover depends on the client’s wishes. Some components included in the product may cause allergic reactions.
Cosmetologists recommend performing the procedure for removing synthetic eyelashes at home if the extension was done using a bunch method.
If each eyelash was attached separately, then there is a high risk of damaging the hair follicles when removed independently. In this case, it is better to visit a cosmetologist.
Removers can be sold both in large cosmetic stores and small boutiques. When choosing a remover, many girls rely on price, preferring a more affordable product. But quality may suffer from the price. Using cheap products can cause significant damage to your eyes.
After extensions, you should consult with a specialist and find out which remover is best to purchase for home use. In beauty salons you can order a professional product for removing eyelash extensions.
Post-procedure care, correction, and delicate removal of eyelashes with a remover will allow you to always be beautiful without harm to the eyes.
Use the remover to remove eyelashes in beauty salons or at home. A cream or gel composition is preferable for independent use. Proper removal of eyelash extensions will not cause discomfort and will not harm the skin of the eyelids.
How to do a manicure with keratolytic: three techniques
All three types of keratolytics are used in manicure - acid, alkaline and urea.
The most popular are acidic options. They quickly loosen the cuticle and facilitate its complete removal.
Urea removers should be selected taking into account the percentage of urea. Up to 10% is a universal remedy, 10-20% is professional preparations for salon specialists, 20-30% urea is an aggressive composition used to perform pedicures on difficult and neglected feet.
Alkaline keratolytics in their pure form are used less often on the hands, as they have an aggressive composition and greatly dry out the skin. Most often, masters give preference to removers that combine acids and alkalis at the same time. This composition allows you to quickly remove the cuticle, while having a gentle effect and caring for the skin.
Keratolytics are used in three manicure techniques: classic combined, hardware combined and European unedged in dry and wet versions. Let's look at each technique step by step.
Classic edged manicure using a combination technique with remover
Can be performed using dry or wet technique with soaking in water.
Execution steps:
- The coating is removed from the nails, the length and shape are adjusted;
- Using a pusher or an orange stick, gently push back the skin along the perimeter of the nail;
- A keratolytic agent is applied to the cuticle or pterygium area using a brush or applicator nozzle;
- The product is kept for 1-3 minutes according to the instructions;
- For mild softeners, you can additionally soak your hands in warm water immediately after applying the product. Time ratio: wait 1-2 minutes after application, plus 2-3 minutes of immersion in water (the example is relevant for Biogel from Derma Pharms);
- The product is washed off with water using a wet technique;
- When dry processing, the cuticle is wiped with micellar water or plain water using a cotton pad, and then a neutralizer is applied for alkaline and acidic versions of the drug;
- Using a pusher or an orange stick, the remaining softened skin is removed and lifted. You can help yourself with a damp cloth;
- The open and raised cuticle is cut with scissors or cuticle nippers;
- The nail is treated with a dehydrator and primer;
- Coating is being applied;
- The skin around the nail is treated with a caring gel or oil.
Types of eyelash removers
Removers differ in consistency. Possible forms of release: gel, cream and liquid. Each type has characteristics and differs in the degree of impact. For eyelash extensions, glue with different structures is used, the remover is selected taking this indicator into account.
Cream
The cream is a convenient option for use at home. Removers contain fatty oils that effectively dissolve the adhesive and resin base. Their advantages:
- They have a dense and thick consistency, which allows you to control consumption. One package lasts for a long time.
- They are safe and, in rare cases, cause irritation or burns if they come into contact with the eyes.
- Use does not require special skills.
- The cream is applied to the eyelash line and removed using a cotton swab. The holding time after application is from 7 to 10 minutes. After the glue has softened, the bundles are removed individually.
A special feature of the products is that they can only be used with light glue.
Gel-like
The gel allows for precise application. The composition does not spread and is not absorbed into the skin. During the procedure, there is virtually no risk of the product getting into the eyes.
The compositions differ in the degree of impact and aggressiveness of the active substances. Concentrated gels dissolve capsules faster, but can cause an allergic reaction.
There are hypoallergenic gel removers that have a gentle effect. These products are safe and do the job within 5-10 minutes. Apply with a brush or spatula.
The disadvantage of this form is the high consumption.
Liquid
Solutions contain stronger active substances. They have a second name - debonders. They can quickly dissolve glue, but require careful use. Used in the salon. It is not recommended to use liquid removers on your own due to the risk of negative effects on the mucous membrane of the eye.
The liquid is applied with a brush and washed off with a special product. The holding time is no more than 10-15 minutes. The advantages of this form are economical consumption and low price, the disadvantages are the ability to spread over the eyelid and the aggressive composition.
Hardware manicure using combi technique with remover
This combination of techniques is not very popular, but is sometimes used by masters. The device is used to remove coating or extended nails, as well as to lift and open the cuticle. After this, a remover or keratolytic agent comes into effect in combination with scissors or nippers.
Subsequence:
- Apply remover to the raised cuticle and wait for the time recommended according to the instructions;
- Using a damp cloth, remove part of the softened skin and pterygium, remove the remaining keratolytic;
- Use scissors to cut the cuticle;
- Apply Nail Prep degreasing and drying agent and decorative coating;
- We treat the skin with oil or care composition.
Combined manicure - what is it, stages of implementation
Review of popular tools
We offer an overview of popular products designed to remove permanent makeup and the consequences of unsuccessful eyebrow tinting.
Rejuvi Tattoo Removal
Rejuvi Tattoo Removal is a remover designed to remove tattoos. The removal process is based on the use of a biochemical method, thanks to which pigment particles are removed from the body.
The remover preparation contains derivatives of metal oxides, similar to the oxides that are part of coloring pigments. The success rate of using this remover, provided that a professional works with it, is 99.9%.
Means:
- quickly and effectively removes pigments of any shade;
- does not have a carcinogenic effect and extremely rarely causes allergies;
- gives a quick effect;
- does not change the color of your own eyebrow hairs, which is inevitable during laser removal
The product has been tested in Russian and foreign clinics and has been used for the second decade
Bioremover PERMANENT TATTOO REMOVER
The PERMANENT TATTOO REMOVER bioremover can be used to correct mistakes immediately after completing the process of applying permanent makeup, as well as to remove old tattoos.
The drug contains natural substances, including lactic and phytic acid, mineral and vegetable oils, and tocopherol. After using this remover, the skin recovers much faster, so a long rehabilitation period is not required.
Rejuvi
Rejuvi remover is designed to remove the consequences of an unsuccessful tattoo. With its help, pigment of any shade is removed, including beige, green, white. These shades are difficult to remove using other methods.
The drug is a creamy suspension containing oxides of zinc, calcium, and magnesium. The chemical composition of the remover is similar to the pigment used for tattooing. Therefore, after introduction, it connects with paint particles and literally “pushes” them to the surface.
Remover "Estel"
The “Estel” remover is a product that will not help cope with an unsuccessful tattoo, but is suitable for washing off paint from the skin; it is used after unsuccessful eyebrow tinting. The full name of the drug is Skin Color Remover, sold in 200 ml bottles. The product is pH neutral, does not contain ammonia, and gently removes unwanted paint.
Application is simple: soak a napkin or swab with lotion and wipe the areas from which you want to remove paint. Remains of lotion are removed with wet wipes. The bottle is equipped with a convenient dispenser; the lotion itself is very liquid, with a consistency similar to water. The smell is quite pungent, the texture is oily.